Dear Wine Enthusiasts and Collectors,
The day finally came where the beauty of Italian wine was
reflected at its best in the one-day event of Opera Wine.
On Saturday March 21st I arrived at the Piazza Bra’
at 4pm to attend OperaWine 2015 in the Palazzo Gran Guardia, just a few steps
away from the historical Arena of Verona. The location not only offered history
and beauty to the event, but it also highlighted how the artistic methodology
of creating wine can be exquisitely combined with the art of Opera. Wine Spectator, which is one of the biggest
wine publications in the world, picked and labeled 100 wine producers as the
best of Italy. Therefore, the wine producers that are picked, especially the
small ones, express a unified feeling of pride as they are able to be the ones
who represent the native grapes of their region and culture to journalists and
people in the wine industry that will expand their message to wine enthusiasts
around the world.
If you want to see the full list of the 100 wine producers
that were selected, please go to www.OperaWine.it
This
event is the gala opening to the annual Vinitaly fair, which I will talk about
in my next blog. OperaWine started in 2012 and since then its goal has been to
best represent the diversity and quality of the different Italian regions.
“In 2014, Wine Spectator
editors reviewed 18,000 wines in independent blind tastings. Of these, more than 3,000 were Italian, and it is from this extensive database that the
OperaWine participants were chosen”
(Marvin R. Shanken, Editor and
Publisher of Wine Spectator).
Although the 100 wine producers selected to attend the event
have represented their region in an exemplary manner, below I have listed (in
no particular order) the ones that stood out to me.
Altesino
Elisabetta
Gnudi Angelini
Elisabetta
Gnudi Angelini purchased Altesino in 2002 and with the help of Claudio Basla
(general manager of the winery) they continuously produce wine that evokes the
elegant style that symbolizes Altesino. Elisabetta’s background is interesting since she comes from a theatrical world, but has integrated her artistic
passion in the making of her wines ensuring their upmost quality.
I
had a great time chatting with her while tasting her Brunello di Montalcino
2008 Montosoli. The wine has red and black fruit notes, roses, balsamic, and
herbs. It was very rich and complex on the palate with a long finish.
On
a side note, Elisabetta is also owner of the amazing property of Borgo Scopeto
in the Chianti area. If you want to get more acquainted with the history of
Altesino wines go to www.altesino.it
Biondi Santi
Jacopo Biondi Santi
Presently,
Jacopo Biondi Santi and his sister Alessandra Biondi Santi represent Tenuta
Greppo. It is always a pleasure to speak with Jacopo, such a gentleman, and in
the event the wine he showcased was Biondi Santi-Tenuta Greppo 2007.
The wine shows fruit character, sour cherries, strawberries, truffle, leather notes, balsamic and sweet spices. It has a great acidity that is integrated with the tannin. Elegant wine with beautiful long finish.
The wine shows fruit character, sour cherries, strawberries, truffle, leather notes, balsamic and sweet spices. It has a great acidity that is integrated with the tannin. Elegant wine with beautiful long finish.
For
more information about Biondi Santi go to www.biondisanti.it
Avignonesi
“In 2009, Avignonesi was
acquired by Virginie Saverys who has since introduced organic and biodynamic
farming methods to craft distinct, genuine wines with an even stronger
character, and has acquired additional vineyards and a state-of-the-art
winemaking facility in the Montepulciano appellation”
(www.avignonesi.it).
Virginie
Saverys is Belgian and she is presently the owner of Avignonesi. She is a
lovely woman and I tasted her Desiderio Merlot 2011. The wine evokes strong
fruit character of red cherries, plump, mint, some notes of red roses, leather,
and some spices. Full-bodied with an elegant finish. It truly expresses the
richness and beauty of the Montepulciano territory.
Valdicava
Vincenzo Abbruzzese
It is always nice to see one of my favorite wine producers, Vincenzo Abbruzzese, in Opera Wine. He is one of the most traditional wine producers in Montalcino and that is displayed in the quality of his wines. In the event, I tasted his 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. A truly spectacular wine! It shows intense red and black fruit accompanied with earthy notes, tobacco, and some spices. It is a fresh and elegant wine that has a well-integrated tannin and acidity. The wine has an astonishing finish and will continue to improve year after year. The quality of Valdicava’s Brunellos demonstrate why Vincenzo is continuously asked to attend Opera Wine.
Siro Pacenti
Giancarlo Pacenti
It
is also always nice to see Giancarlo Pacenti, owner of Siro Pacenti. Giancarlo
has received very high points for his wines and they greatly represent the
Brunello di Montalcino region.
“In
1988 Giancarlo took over the management of the vineyards. This was the year of
the harvest in which Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino Siro Pacenti were bottled
for the first time. . .Giancarlo prefers to use barriques to age his wines
given its special personality, creating wines that are very powerful”
(www.siropacenti.it)
I
tasted his Brunello di Montalcino 2006, which was outstanding. It is a very
well-structured wine showing rich and freshness. The wines has aromas of
blackberries, red cherries, violet, truffle, herbs, chocolate, and also some
spices. The tannin and acidity begin to be integrated, making it a well complex
wine. It has an enjoyable finish.
Barone Ricasoli
Francesco Ricasoli
Ricasoli
is an established family in the wine industry, making Barone Ricasoli one of the
oldest wineries in Italy.
In the event, I tried Castello Brolio 2011
Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This is a great Chianti Classico! A blend of
Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The
wine expresses intense fruit flavor, sour cherry, blackberry, roses, violet,
mint, leather, with some spices. I enjoyed it, but I would give it a few more
years in the bottle.
FERRARI
“In 1902 the legend of
Ferrari began with a man, Giulio Ferrari, and his dream of creating a wine in
Trentine capable of competing with the best French Champagnes. As he had no
children, Giulio Ferrari began looking for a successor to whom he could entrust
his dream, [and he chose] Bruno Lunelli… Today the third generation of the
Lunelli family is keeping the Ferrari dream alive. Marcello, Matteo, Camilla,
and Alessandro lead the company with the aim of combining innovation and
tradition”
(www.ferraritrento.it).
In
Opera Wine I spoke with Matteo Lunelli, the company’s president, about their Perlé
2006. What an incredible sparkling wine! This Blanc de Blancs has a complex
nose of apple, peaches, pears, yeast notes, and honey. On the palate, it has
fine and elegant bubbles with great acidity. It is dry and has an elegant
finish. This sparkling wine
is a good example of the combination of tradition and innovation that many
Italian wine producers are leaning towards.
Petrolo
Luca Sanjust
“The Estate was acquired in the 40’s by the
family Bazzocchi-Sanjust that followed up the tradition of carefully
producing high quality wines with utter commitment. The pecularities
of this area add to its value; the land of Petrolo, where
vineyards, olive groves and woods coexist, living side by side, forming
with the soil a rich ecosystem that contributes to perfectly balance the
different grape varieties… [Furthermore], Winemaking at Petrolo, since the second half of the
80's has been aiming to produce wines with character, connected to our
territory thanks to vines of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon”
(www.petrolo.it).
In
the event, I was able to know more about the Petrolo estate from the wine maker
Luca Sanjust. As I mentioned earlier, the beauty of Opera Wine is that these
selected wine producers are able to express, in a big media platform, what they
believe is the main message of their brand in the present moment, and how it is
reflected in their wines.
I
tasted Boggina 2011. This wine is part of a small production that has 6,000 bottles
of 100% Sangiovese. It shows delicious red fruit, sour cherry, a note of red
roses, spices and leather. It is a great sensation on the palate with beautiful
finish.
Gaja
Gaia Gaja Rossana Gaja
The sisters, Gaia Gaja and Rossana Gaja (in the picture
above) represent the new generation of Gaja wines. They are both holding the
same wine that I tasted, which is Sori San Lorenzo Langhe 2011. This wine is
95% Nebbiolo and 5% Barbera. It is very intense and shows black fruit , herbs,
coffee, minerality, and a hint of mint.
On the palate, it is still young and needs more years to develop. The wine is
very elegant.
I asked Gaia Gaja a couple of questions in order for
all of you to know more about her perspective, and her answers are below:
1) How do you feel about being selected by Wine Spectator to attend
Opera Wine? And how has it affected your brand?
“I
can not be more than honored to be here, chosen by Wine Spectator. It is a great two hour event and for my
brand it is very good. I know many people came all over the world; it is
very important. It’s the right place to be.”
2)Which vintage do you consider to be your best? And why?
“I have to think about it. It is impossible to choose only one. The 90s are outstanding, and the 2011 I adore; it is more fruity and has less acidity. You can enjoy it now. The 2010 is a classic vintage.”
2)Which vintage do you consider to be your best? And why?
“I have to think about it. It is impossible to choose only one. The 90s are outstanding, and the 2011 I adore; it is more fruity and has less acidity. You can enjoy it now. The 2010 is a classic vintage.”
Damilano
Paolo
Damilano, Mario Damilano, and Guido
Damilano
“Damilano Wine Company is one of the oldest wineries in
Barolo with historic traditions. The Damilano family business dates back to 1890
when Giuseppe Borgogno, the great grandfather of the winery’s
current owners, began to vinify his own estate wines. The town of Barolo
resides in the generous and beautiful Langhe region, and its name was taken on
by the ‘king of wine’. It is with great passion that Giacomo
Damilano, the founder’s son-in-law, developed with his children
a love for the vineyards, selecting and maintaining them with great care in
order to improve the quality of the wines. Over time, the winery’s
production was transformed into a jewel that was passed down with pride in 1997
to Giacomo’s grandchildren, who continue to manage the winery today. Paolo,
Mario and Guido
Damilano, the fourth
generation, have brought new vigor to the family business, strengthening and
developing the fruit which this extraordinary land has to offer.”
(www.cantinedamilano.it).
It was great
to meet the three brothers and try their 2006 Cannubi Barolo. This wine came
from the Cannubi region. It is spectacular and ready to drink! The wine has
pronounced fruit notes, cherry, plum, tobacco and licorice. It has a soft
tannin and full-body.
Giacomo Neri
“Casanova di Neri was
founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri who with his great vision and passion
understood the huge potential of wine in the Montalcino territory, it was
passed on to his son Giacomo in 1991… We believe that wines are the grit of the
vineyard and of man’s labor. The care and passion in working the land has to
take into account the characteristics of the land, the microclimate and the
variety so as to produce a unique distinct wine able to express its territory. For
over forty years our evolution has been marked by careful targeted choices that
have distinguished our estate and the wines we produce creating their own
style”
(www.Casanovadineri.it)
In Opera Wine I
tried his Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2007. Such a great Brunello! This
was an amazing vintage and this wine reflects it. It is very structured, has a
concentration of fruit, sour cherry, blackberry, balsamic, herbs, spices, and
leather. On the palate, it shows a great personality and finish. Overall, this
wine not only represents the passion of its winemakers but also the complexity
and elegance of the Sangiovese grape.
Bruno Giacosa
Bruna Giacosa
“The knowledge, passion and wisdom
that Bruno Giacosa brings to his work as producer of fine wines is the fruit of
the dedication of three generations of wine makers. Bruno’s art encompasses
passion and clear judgement but, above all, the utmost respect for his product,
its admirers and for the beautiful countryside where he and his family were
born and raised. [Furthermore] our cellars combine the past and present in a
harmonious way. We possess the latest in modern technology but we also respect
traditions to produce a wine that maintains its identity, from vine to bottle.
Our wine making methods are therefore traditional in full respect of the
grape’s typical characteristics”
(www.brunogiacosa.it).
I tasted their Barolo
Falleto 2004. This Barolo encompasses the combination of tradition and modern
technology. The wine evokes red fruit, roses, and spices. It is a very
structured wine with a graceful finish. Ready to drink. Wonderful Barolo!
Co-Owner: Cesare Benvenuto
“The Pio Cesare winery was founded in 1881 by our
great-grandfather Cesare Pio. He was one of the very first wine producers to
believe in the great potential and quality of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and
in the other great wines of Piemonte. Pio Cesare in the second portion of
1800s, was among the very first winemakers to produce these wines with a
philosophy that was dedicated to the terroir and the strictest quality of the
wine. For five generations, the Pio Cesare family has been
producing traditional Piemontese wines in its ancient cellars, located in the
centre of the town of Alba. The production of the
wines of Pio Cesare is intentionally limited in order to maintain their high
quality. Year after year, the wines are ranked among the world's best and most
highly regarded”
(www.piocesare.it)
The wine, Barolo 2010, has the nose of a classic Barolo. This vintage was exceptional. On the palate it shows black and red cherry, tobacco notes, minerality and licorice. It has a firm tannin with a fresh acidity. A very classic Barolo!
Col D’ Orcia
Francesco Marone Cinzano
“Col d’Orcia literally means
the hill overlooking the Orcia River. The Orcia River marks the South West
border of the Brunello di Montalcino
territory and the name of the farm is intrinsically linked to the physical
location were the vineyards are planted. It is the mission of Col d’Orcia to
produce the best possible wines that the exceptional combination of soil and
climate of this part of Montalcino can achieve. At Col d’Orcia, for many years
now, we have always ascribed high value to the natural environment in which we
operate. For this reason in the year 2010 we took the decision of submitting to
the organic farming certification process in order to become the largest
organic wine producing farm in the whole of Tuscany. Since August 27, 2010 the
whole estate including vineyards, olive groves, other fields and even the
gardens are farmed following exclusively organic agricultural practices.” (www.coldorcia.com)
Francesco
presented the amazing Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento 2004 Riserva. The
wine is already reflecting its years. The concentration of the fruit is
spectacular accompanied with great acidity and tannin. Beautiful aroma of dry
roses, spices, tobacco, herbs, chocolate, and a hint of mint. The wine has a
very special finish.
Ca' del Bosco
Maurizio Zanella
“In 1964 Annamaria Clementi buys a little hillside house called
“Ca’del bosco” with two hectares (five acres) of land, surrounded by a dense
wood of oak. Since then she [has been] the inspiration of her son Maurizio. She
passed away in 2014”
The sparkling wine I tasted was Annamaria Clementi Brut 2004. It is very rich, it has citric notes, apricot, white flower, and honey. The wine's long finish shows pure quality.
Mastrojanni
Managing Director: Andrea Machetti
“In 2008, a number of years after Mastrojanni
the lawyer passed away, his children decided to sell the estate to the Illy family who
were lucky enough to be able to purchase it. . . Our philosophy comes from
this: intervening as little as possible in the vineyard and in the cellar,
being able to preserve
– in the transformation phase – the wonder that nature has provided these
grapes maintaining their aromas and structure intact. Man is not used to acting as a disciple in
front of nature, but it is the only way to make fine wines, because this –
notwithstanding our long experience and all of our knowledge – each year
teaches us something: only this opening to learning enables us to understand, learn and improve”
(www.mastrojanni.com).
I tried Brunello
di Montalcino Vigna 2009. The wine showed sour cherry, leather, spices,
balsamic, and roses. On the palate: Deep and complex. Good acidity with great
tannin and long finish.
I enjoyed tasting the exquisite Italian wines exhibited in
the event. Wine Spectator did a fantastic job at representing the diverse
regions of Italy, and although there are other wine producers who make
spectacular wines, the attendees demonstrated through the quality of their
wines why they were chosen to attend Opera Wine. Stevie Kim, managing director
of Vinitaly International, did a great job being part of putting together this
amazing event and promoting Vinitaly, which connects young and older wine consumers with
their passion for wine, demonstrating that the art of wine can be appreciated
throughout different generations.
On a side note, for all the wine enthusiasts that are not
acquainted with Wine Spectator, this magazine “reaches more than 3 million readers worldwide, [and] the
brand also encompasses the Web's most comprehensive wine site.” To sign up go
to www.WineSpectator.com. I’m a subscriber and I truly recommend it for wine
lovers of all ages and wine-knowledge. Since it reaches a wide demographic, it
is able to combine the wine ideas of the older consumers with the ones of the
emerging young consumers.
Lets keep the conversation open on wine and connect on
social media!
Instagram: @wine_and_more
Twitter:
@PshapiroWine
Facebook (business): www.facebook.com/wineand.more.3
Facebook (Personal): www.facebook.com/wineand.more.3
My blog on Vinitaly is coming out soon with interviews
and insights on the fair from the Italian wine producers that you love.
Salute! *Clink*
*Clink*
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