Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Italian Beauty in a Wine Glass


Dear Wine Enthusiasts and Collectors, 

The day finally came where the beauty of Italian wine was reflected at its best in the one-day event of Opera Wine.

On Saturday March 21st I arrived at the Piazza Bra’ at 4pm to attend OperaWine 2015 in the Palazzo Gran Guardia, just a few steps away from the historical Arena of Verona. The location not only offered history and beauty to the event, but it also highlighted how the artistic methodology of creating wine can be exquisitely combined with the art of Opera.  Wine Spectator, which is one of the biggest wine publications in the world, picked and labeled 100 wine producers as the best of Italy. Therefore, the wine producers that are picked, especially the small ones, express a unified feeling of pride as they are able to be the ones who represent the native grapes of their region and culture to journalists and people in the wine industry that will expand their message to wine enthusiasts around the world.


If you want to see the full list of the 100 wine producers that were selected, please go to www.OperaWine.it
This event is the gala opening to the annual Vinitaly fair, which I will talk about in my next blog. OperaWine started in 2012 and since then its goal has been to best represent the diversity and quality of the different Italian regions.


“In 2014, Wine Spectator editors reviewed 18,000 wines in independent blind tastings. Of these, more than 3,000 were Italian, and it is from this extensive database that the OperaWine participants were chosen”
(Marvin R. Shanken, Editor and Publisher of Wine Spectator).

 
Although the 100 wine producers selected to attend the event have represented their region in an exemplary manner, below I have listed (in no particular order) the ones that stood out to me.

Altesino


Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini

Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini purchased Altesino in 2002 and with the help of Claudio Basla (general manager of the winery) they continuously produce wine that evokes the elegant style that symbolizes Altesino. Elisabetta’s background is interesting since she comes from a theatrical world, but has integrated her artistic passion in the making of her wines ensuring their upmost quality.

I had a great time chatting with her while tasting her Brunello di Montalcino 2008 Montosoli. The wine has red and black fruit notes, roses, balsamic, and herbs. It was very rich and complex on the palate with a long finish.

On a side note, Elisabetta is also owner of the amazing property of Borgo Scopeto in the Chianti area. If you want to get more acquainted with the history of Altesino wines go to www.altesino.it

Biondi Santi


  Jacopo Biondi Santi

Presently, Jacopo Biondi Santi and his sister Alessandra Biondi Santi represent Tenuta Greppo. It is always a pleasure to speak with Jacopo, such a gentleman, and in the event the wine he showcased was Biondi Santi-Tenuta Greppo 2007.
The wine shows fruit character, sour cherries, strawberries, truffle, leather notes, balsamic and sweet spices. It has a great acidity that is integrated with the tannin. Elegant wine with beautiful long finish.

For more information about Biondi Santi go to www.biondisanti.it

Avignonesi

 
Virginie Saverys 

In 2009, Avignonesi was acquired by Virginie Saverys who has since introduced organic and biodynamic farming methods to craft distinct, genuine wines with an even stronger character, and has acquired additional vineyards and a state-of-the-art winemaking facility in the Montepulciano appellation 
(www.avignonesi.it).


 Virginie Saverys is Belgian and she is presently the owner of Avignonesi. She is a lovely woman and I tasted her Desiderio Merlot 2011. The wine evokes strong fruit character of red cherries, plump, mint, some notes of red roses, leather, and some spices. Full-bodied with an elegant finish. It truly expresses the richness and beauty of the Montepulciano territory.

Valdicava
Vincenzo Abbruzzese
   
It is always nice to see one of my favorite wine producers, Vincenzo Abbruzzese, in Opera Wine. He is one of the most traditional wine producers in Montalcino and that is displayed in the quality of his wines. In the event, I tasted his 2005 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano. A truly spectacular wine! It shows intense red and black fruit accompanied with earthy notes, tobacco, and some spices. It is a fresh and elegant wine that has a well-integrated tannin and acidity. The wine has an astonishing finish and will continue to improve year after year. The quality of Valdicava’s Brunellos demonstrate why Vincenzo is continuously asked to attend Opera Wine. 

Siro Pacenti


Giancarlo Pacenti
 
It is also always nice to see Giancarlo Pacenti, owner of Siro Pacenti. Giancarlo has received very high points for his wines and they greatly represent the Brunello di Montalcino region. 


“In 1988 Giancarlo took over the management of the vineyards. This was the year of the harvest in which Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino Siro Pacenti were bottled for the first time. . .Giancarlo prefers to use barriques to age his wines given its special personality, creating wines that are very powerful” 
(www.siropacenti.it)

I tasted his Brunello di Montalcino 2006, which was outstanding. It is a very well-structured wine showing rich and freshness. The wines has aromas of blackberries, red cherries, violet, truffle, herbs, chocolate, and also some spices. The tannin and acidity begin to be integrated, making it a well complex wine. It has an enjoyable finish.

Barone Ricasoli




  Francesco Ricasoli 

Ricasoli is an established family in the wine industry, making Barone Ricasoli one of the oldest wineries in Italy.

 In the event, I tried Castello Brolio 2011 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. This is a great Chianti Classico! A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The wine expresses intense fruit flavor, sour cherry, blackberry, roses, violet, mint, leather, with some spices. I enjoyed it, but I would give it a few more years in the bottle.
  

FERRARI

In 1902 the legend of Ferrari began with a man, Giulio Ferrari, and his dream of creating a wine in Trentine capable of competing with the best French Champagnes. As he had no children, Giulio Ferrari began looking for a successor to whom he could entrust his dream, [and he chose] Bruno Lunelli… Today the third generation of the Lunelli family is keeping the Ferrari dream alive. Marcello, Matteo, Camilla, and Alessandro lead the company with the aim of combining innovation and tradition” 

(www.ferraritrento.it).
 
In Opera Wine I spoke with Matteo Lunelli, the company’s president, about their Perlé 2006. What an incredible sparkling wine! This Blanc de Blancs has a complex nose of apple, peaches, pears, yeast notes, and honey. On the palate, it has fine and elegant bubbles with great acidity. It is dry and has an elegant finish. This sparkling wine is a good example of the combination of tradition and innovation that many Italian wine producers are leaning towards.

Petrolo 

Luca Sanjust

  “The Estate was acquired in the 40’s by the family Bazzocchi-Sanjust that followed up the tradition of carefully producing high quality wines with utter commitment. The pecularities of this area add to its value; the land of Petrolo, where vineyards, olive groves and woods coexist, living side by side, forming with the soil a rich ecosystem that contributes to perfectly balance the different grape varieties… [Furthermore], Winemaking at Petrolo, since the second half of the 80's has been aiming to produce wines with character, connected to our territory thanks to vines of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
(www.petrolo.it).


In the event, I was able to know more about the Petrolo estate from the wine maker Luca Sanjust. As I mentioned earlier, the beauty of Opera Wine is that these selected wine producers are able to express, in a big media platform, what they believe is the main message of their brand in the present moment, and how it is reflected in their wines.


I tasted Boggina 2011. This wine is part of a small production that has 6,000 bottles of 100% Sangiovese. It shows delicious red fruit, sour cherry, a note of red roses, spices and leather. It is a great sensation on the palate with beautiful finish.


Gaja

 
            Gaia Gaja                                                               Rossana Gaja
The sisters, Gaia Gaja and Rossana Gaja (in the picture above) represent the new generation of Gaja wines. They are both holding the same wine that I tasted, which is Sori San Lorenzo Langhe 2011. This wine is 95% Nebbiolo and 5% Barbera. It is very intense and shows black fruit , herbs, coffee, minerality,  and a hint of mint. On the palate, it is still young and needs more years to develop. The wine is very elegant.

I asked Gaia Gaja a couple of questions in order for all of you to know more about her perspective, and her answers are below:

1)   How do you feel about being selected by Wine Spectator to attend Opera Wine? And how has it affected your brand?
“I can not be more than honored to be here, chosen by Wine Spectator. It is a great two hour event and for my brand it is very good. I know many people came all over the world; it is very important. It’s the right place to be.”  
2)Which vintage do you consider to be your best? And why?
I have to think about it. It is impossible to choose only one. The 90s are outstanding, and the 2011 I adore; it is more fruity and has less acidity. You can enjoy it now. The 2010 is a classic vintage.”


Damilano
Paolo Damilano,  Mario Damilano, and Guido Damilano  

Damilano Wine Company is one of the oldest wineries in Barolo with historic traditions. The Damilano family business dates back to 1890 when Giuseppe Borgogno, the great grandfather of the winery’s current owners, began to vinify his own estate wines.  The town of Barolo resides in the generous and beautiful Langhe region, and its name was taken on by the ‘king of wine’. It is with great passion that Giacomo Damilano, the founder’s son-in-law, developed with his children a love for the vineyards, selecting and maintaining them with great care in order to improve the quality of the wines.  Over time, the winery’s production was transformed into a jewel that was passed down with pride in 1997 to Giacomo’s grandchildren, who continue to manage the winery today. Paolo, Mario and Guido Damilano, the fourth generation, have brought new vigor to the family business, strengthening and developing the fruit which this extraordinary land has to offer.” 
(www.cantinedamilano.it).  


It was great to meet the three brothers and try their 2006 Cannubi Barolo. This wine came from the Cannubi region. It is spectacular and ready to drink! The wine has pronounced fruit notes, cherry, plum, tobacco and licorice. It has a soft tannin and full-body.
 
Casanova di Neri
 
Giacomo Neri
“Casanova di Neri was founded in 1971 by Giovanni Neri who with his great vision and passion understood the huge potential of wine in the Montalcino territory, it was passed on to his son Giacomo in 1991… We believe that wines are the grit of the vineyard and of man’s labor. The care and passion in working the land has to take into account the characteristics of the land, the microclimate and the variety so as to produce a unique distinct wine able to express its territory. For over forty years our evolution has been marked by careful targeted choices that have distinguished our estate and the wines we produce creating their own style”
(www.Casanovadineri.it)

 In Opera Wine I tried his Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2007. Such a great Brunello! This was an amazing vintage and this wine reflects it. It is very structured, has a concentration of fruit, sour cherry, blackberry, balsamic, herbs, spices, and leather. On the palate, it shows a great personality and finish. Overall, this wine not only represents the passion of its winemakers but also the complexity and elegance of the Sangiovese grape.  



Bruno Giacosa
 
 
Bruna Giacosa   
The knowledge, passion and wisdom that Bruno Giacosa brings to his work as producer of fine wines is the fruit of the dedication of three generations of wine makers. Bruno’s art encompasses passion and clear judgement but, above all, the utmost respect for his product, its admirers and for the beautiful countryside where he and his family were born and raised. [Furthermore] our cellars combine the past and present in a harmonious way. We possess the latest in modern technology but we also respect traditions to produce a wine that maintains its identity, from vine to bottle. Our wine making methods are therefore traditional in full respect of the grape’s typical characteristics” 
(www.brunogiacosa.it). 

I tasted their Barolo Falleto 2004. This Barolo encompasses the combination of tradition and modern technology. The wine evokes red fruit, roses, and spices. It is a very structured wine with a graceful finish. Ready to drink. Wonderful Barolo!

  Pio Cesare 
Co-Owner: Cesare Benvenuto
The Pio Cesare winery was founded in 1881 by our great-grandfather Cesare Pio. He was one of the very first wine producers to believe in the great potential and quality of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and in the other great wines of Piemonte. Pio Cesare in the second portion of 1800s, was among the very first winemakers to produce these wines with a philosophy that was dedicated to the terroir and the strictest quality of the wine.  For five generations, the Pio Cesare family has been producing traditional Piemontese wines in its ancient cellars, located in the centre of the town of Alba. The production of the wines of Pio Cesare is intentionally limited in order to maintain their high quality. Year after year, the wines are ranked among the world's best and most highly regarded  (www.piocesare.it) 


The wine, Barolo 2010, has the nose of a classic Barolo. This vintage was exceptional. On the palate it shows black and red cherry, tobacco notes, minerality and licorice. It has a firm tannin with a fresh acidity. A very classic Barolo!

Col D’ Orcia
Francesco Marone Cinzano

Col d’Orcia literally means the hill overlooking the Orcia River. The Orcia River marks the South West border of the Brunello di Montalcino territory and the name of the farm is intrinsically linked to the physical location were the vineyards are planted. It is the mission of Col d’Orcia to produce the best possible wines that the exceptional combination of soil and climate of this part of Montalcino can achieve. At Col d’Orcia, for many years now, we have always ascribed high value to the natural environment in which we operate. For this reason in the year 2010 we took the decision of submitting to the organic farming certification process in order to become the largest organic wine producing farm in the whole of Tuscany. Since August 27, 2010 the whole estate including vineyards, olive groves, other fields and even the gardens are farmed following exclusively organic agricultural practices.” (www.coldorcia.com)
Francesco presented the amazing Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento 2004 Riserva. The wine is already reflecting its years. The concentration of the fruit is spectacular accompanied with great acidity and tannin. Beautiful aroma of dry roses, spices, tobacco, herbs, chocolate, and a hint of mint. The wine has a very special finish. 

  Ca' del Bosco
Maurizio Zanella   
In 1964 Annamaria Clementi buys a little hillside house called “Ca’del bosco” with two hectares (five acres) of land, surrounded by a dense wood of oak. Since then she [has been] the inspiration of her son Maurizio. She passed away in 2014

The sparkling wine I tasted was Annamaria Clementi Brut 2004. It is very rich, it has citric notes, apricot, white flower, and honey. The wine's long finish shows pure quality.

Mastrojanni 

 
Managing Director: Andrea Machetti  
In 2008, a number of years after Mastrojanni the lawyer passed away, his children decided to sell the estate to the Illy family who were lucky enough to be able to purchase it. . . Our philosophy comes from this: intervening as little as possible in the vineyard and in the cellar, being able to preserve – in the transformation phase – the wonder that nature has provided these grapes maintaining their aromas and structure intact.  Man is not used to acting as a disciple in front of nature, but it is the only way to make fine wines, because this – notwithstanding our long experience and all of our knowledge – each year teaches us something: only this opening to learning enables us to understand, learn and improve
(www.mastrojanni.com).

I tried Brunello di Montalcino Vigna 2009. The wine showed sour cherry, leather, spices, balsamic, and roses. On the palate: Deep and complex. Good acidity with great tannin and long finish.  

 



I enjoyed tasting the exquisite Italian wines exhibited in the event. Wine Spectator did a fantastic job at representing the diverse regions of Italy, and although there are other wine producers who make spectacular wines, the attendees demonstrated through the quality of their wines why they were chosen to attend Opera Wine. Stevie Kim, managing director of Vinitaly International, did a great job being part of putting together this amazing event and promoting Vinitaly, which connects young and older wine consumers with their passion for wine, demonstrating that the art of wine can be appreciated throughout different generations.  

On a side note, for all the wine enthusiasts that are not acquainted with Wine Spectator, this magazine “reaches more than 3 million readers worldwide, [and] the brand also encompasses the Web's most comprehensive wine site.” To sign up go to www.WineSpectator.com. I’m a subscriber and I truly recommend it for wine lovers of all ages and wine-knowledge. Since it reaches a wide demographic, it is able to combine the wine ideas of the older consumers with the ones of the emerging young consumers.

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My blog on Vinitaly is coming out soon with interviews and insights on the fair from the Italian wine producers that you love.

Salute! *Clink*  *Clink*